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Right Angle Weave


Single Needle Method


Right Angle Weave (I'll call it RAW from here on) is a wonderful weave. It's name describes it - all the beads are at right angles to each other. There are 2 methods - single needle and double needle. These instructions are for single needle. RAW goes fairly quickly once you get the hang of it. If you've ever made a beaded daisy chain you should have little problem adapting. One warning, however, it is addictive!! RAW adapts to many shapes and is a soft weave, feeling almost like fabric in it's flexibility. I have thought many time of making a vest with it - only I'm afraid that many beads would be too heavy to wear!! If you need graphs, check out my page with graph sets to download .

If you already know how to do RAW, but want to know how to increase, decrease, or make rounded corners, see my Increasing, Decreasing, and Rounding RAW edges section.
For beginners I suggest using at least size 11 regular seed beads , Delicas are not recommended as they have square edges and do not fit well in a circle. Be sure that your beads have a large hole as the thread will pass through it 3 to 4 times. Size D nylon thread is the best for the size 11's, smaller thread makes the weave too loose and a larger thread will not be able to pass through each bead more than twice. In addition, you will find that if you do not have enough room in the eye of the bead, you will have a tendency to split your thread badly. This is a real pain if you need to take any beads out. A size 12 beading needle works well, try to find them as short as you can, I have found them as small as 1 inch long. They are hard to handle (especially if you have long fingernails), but once you get used to them, your work will go quick. As with any seed bead project you should have something to strengthen and lubricate your thread, either Thread Heaven , a product made especially for beaders, a white candle (or parafin) or beeswax . I have found that beeswax works fine, but normally it is dark in color and shows up on white thread, making your finished product look "dirty". It may be a good idea to use 2 different colors of beads so you can keep track of the vertical and horizontal beads, it is easy to 'get lost' at first.
Begin
your
Project
Thread your needle with at least 1 yard of waxed thread, do not make a knot, it's not necessary. String 4 beads, if using 2 colors, alternate colors, leaving at least a 6" tail for weaving back in when your project is done. Going 'clockwise' run thread back through at least the first 2 beads, creating a cross. Pull your thread snug so that all beads are touching. These illustrations are more "open" in order to show the threading.
Row 1
Part A
Add 3 beads to your needle, then going counter-clockwise bring your thread back through the 'horizontal' bead in the previous circle that you just came out of. You will now have 2 circles. Continuing in a counter-clockwise direction, bring your needle through the next 2 beads.
Row 1
Part B
Clockwise
Ending
Continue in this fashion for as long as you want your row. Be sure to go clockwise, then counter-clockwise. A word of advice- -don't pass through more than 1 bead at a time . This will cause your work to 'lean' and it will be hard to determine where you need to go next. When you arrive at the end of your row, bring your needle down through the lowest vertical bead. Note: this is based on ending your row with a clockwise group, please see Counter Clockwise End section .
Row 2
Part A
Counter-
Clockwise
Beginning
String 3 beads onto your thread and bring your needle in a counter-clockwise direction, back up through the lowest 'vertical' bead on the previous row. Then weave your needle through the first of the 3 beads you just added. You are now ready to roll!!
Row 2
Part B
Counter-
Clockwise
Beginning
Here is where your rythym begins (and sometimes confusion - so take it slow at first). String two beads onto your thread and bring the needle clockwise through the second vertical bead on the previous row. Your needle is now woven through the nearest horizontal bead on the same row then through the two beads you just added and on through the next vertical bead on the previous row. Continue in this fashion (clockwise/counter-clockwise) adding 2 beads at a time through a row and 3 at the beginning of each row until your project is the size you want. Weave your thread back through previous rows to secure.

Counter-Clockwise End

Row 1
Part B
Counter-
Clockwise
Ending
After adding the last 3 beads of your row, bring your needle counter-clockwise through the lowest vertical bead.
Row 2
Part A
Clockwise
Beginning
Now pick up 3 more beads and bring the needle in a clockwise direction back through the vertical bead on the previous row. Then weave your needle through all of the beads you just added. You then take the needle through the next vertical bead on the previous row.
Row 2
Part B
Clockwise
Beginning
String two beads onto your thread and bring the needle counter-clockwise through the nearest horizontal bead on the same row. Then weave your needle back through the vertical bead of the previous row and the horizontal bead of the current row. Continue in this fashion (clockwise/counter-clockwise) adding 2 beads at a time through a row and 3 at the beginning of each row until your project is the size you want. Weave your thread back through previous rows to secure.

Increasing, Decreasing, and Rounding Corners

Increase After you have added the first 3 beads of the row that you want to increase, instead of going inward toward your work, add 3 additional beads on the opposite side. Then weave your needle back through the previous grouping and continue as before. This image is based on a counter-clockwise ending of the previous row. If your ending is the opposite, simply add the 3 beads in the opposite direction. It is not absolutely necessary to increase at each row. You may want to complete a square shape then weave your needle through your work to add on where you need to.

Decrease

When decreasing, you will need to weave your thread back through the previous set on your row in order to come out of the lowest vertical bead of it. Add your 3 beads as you would at the beginning of a new row and continue as before. This image is based on an clockwise ending of a row, if your row prior to the decrease is counter-clockwise, add the beads in the opposite direction.

Round
Corners

This is really quite simple and eliminates square or diagonal corners. It's very useful when making amulet bags with a rounded bottom. When beginning a second row, add only 2 beads instead of 3. When ending the row, add 1 bead instead of 2 and weave your needle back down to come out of the lowest vertical bead of the previous set.

© Christina M. Wojcik, 1999 - 2006

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